Beta on EB El Cap : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

how straightforward is the route finding on the east buttress of el cap? I've heard there can be some problems. Any other beta or gear suggestions would be appreciated.

-- cris stickley (, June 02, 1999


It is pretty obvious. Finding the start is a snap. Simply hike up along the base of El Cap until the ledge system ENDS. Look up and you will see the start. :) The topo is pretty accurate. Standard free rack will do the trick. You can avoid the 5.9 offwidth via some 5.9 face climbing (protected by ancient home-brew bolt) off to the left. The pin protecting the 10b move is disappeared a few years ago, but apparently a bolt was put in its place. Have fun, it is a wonderful route!

-- Dave Hill (, June 09, 1999.

the bolt protecting the 10b is GONE! there is good gear (small stoppers) within two feet of the move in either crack. great route, have fun!!

-- anonymous (, November 09, 1999.

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