Status of the access to route Major through Col Moore : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

Does anybody have information about the current status of the access to the route Major through the Col Moore?

-- Francisco Molina (, May 26, 1999


I answer my own question: I have seen in person the status of Col Moore and it is not recommended to use this route to Major or even Brenva. For Brenva Spur it is recommended the use of Couloir Gussfeld, steep and with some ice fall danger.

-- F J Molina (, August 27, 1999.

Is it a new route in order to pass the col Moore, it is dangerous but possible to do during the night. Is necessary to arrive at col Moore, then there are some pitons for start the first double rope descente. At all are three the double rope decsente, be carrefully and chek the piton and the little ropes that link them. Now is necessary go throught (very fastly) a lot of big stones and bad roks in direction of Poire, more or less 100m, and then go up in the Major's direction. It is not possible climb the way for the ancient attac, due to the big avalanche felt down in the 1997. For the time being (August the 23 2003) all the Brenva's routes are close. The isotermic 0C is at 4600m! There isn't glace or snow and every kind of stones fell down during the day like night. P.S. Sorry for my english.

-- Davide Scaricabarozzi (, August 23, 2003.

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