You are only as sharp as your knife.

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This might have been addressed, I couldn't find it. I have a bunch of knives and sharpening equipment. I'm not fully satisfied with any of it. I'd like opinions of those in the know:

What is the best and highest method/equipment/system for knife sharpening? (I mean bring back a shaving edge on a good knife after crapping it up cutting 2 x 4's or digging or something)

In posting expert replies, please consider 2 distinct scenarios:

(a) you are in your home base, you can use the best, most sophisticated, tools and equipment, non-portable, of any kind (but not electric-powered). What do you recommend ? From low-tech to high, anything as long as it WORKS

(b) you are in the woods, in your underwear, you have no possessions but your knife.

Thanks in advance, people.

-- Blue Himalayan (bh@k2.y), May 24, 1999

Answers

Without a doubt, get a LANSKY sharpening system. It includes a clamp to hold blade and three slots for perfect angle depending on the use of the knife.

Next, get a couple of extra stones for the system to flesh it out. It comes with the three standards.

Finally, get a triangular shaped blade for serated (sp?) edges and fish hooks. This is not part of the Lansky system.

I have all this, and have very sharp knives.

Jolly

-- Jollyprez (jolly@prez.com), May 24, 1999.


Lansky Sharpening Systems

-- Ron Rodgers (RonRodgers@Resilience2000.com), May 24, 1999.

BH,

I used to think I could sharpen a knife. Then about a decade and a half ago I bought a Lansky system. Now I really can sharpen stuff. And it's easy and quick too. Don't like serrated edges on my blades so I don't have much experience with that, but the Lansky works great with plain edges. It comes in a plastic kit about 1 1/2" X 5" X 10" and is packable if you're going away for a while. The system lets you choose which bevel you want to put on a blade. I use a 20 degree angle for working knives and they hold up quite well- I've field dressed, skinned and butchered a couple of deer at a time with no problem with my Schrade Uncle Henry hunting knife (a single-blade folding lockback, which is about 20 years old). Having a good steel handy is a good idea for extended forays with a single blade or for kitchen knives, I think.

My 'serious' knife is a Benchmade Mini-AFCK, and the Lansky let me put about 3/4" of sharp on the false edge (though it took some time). The grind lines look like they were done at the factory. I recut the bevel on the main edge to 20 degrees and have kept it there- this is my first experienc with ATS-34 steel, and it is as sharp as any knife I've ever owned.

If you're going to run around in the woods clad only in your underwear you should probably carry a sheath knife with a pouch for a stone on the sheath. I'll go on record as not advising that approach tho... .

-- Lee (lplapin@hotmail.com), May 24, 1999.


What's the price on one of the Lansky sharpening systems? There doesn't seem to be any pricing info on the Web site (at least, not that I could find). Thanks!

-- Don (whytocay@hotmail.com), May 24, 1999.

There's an online source at Kni fe Center with prices and, from my experience, good service.

-- Ron Rodgers (RonRodgers@Resilience2000.com), May 24, 1999.


BH:

As asserted by others, the Lansky tool works. And after you have used it several times, you apprecitate the significance of holding a constant angle with the stone, you can even touch up a blade free hand in the field with new found proficiency.

It might take two hours to get the edge you want with a hard metal like the better Buck knives if they are really worn out, but after you get it where you want it the first time it only takes about twenty or thirty minutes thereafter.

I found that keeping a cheap magnifying glass with the kit helps out a lot too.

The mild steel Schrade blades can be done in minutes, the rare forged steel blades and stainless blades take some time, but it is worth the effort.

In the DC area some of the Mac Tool men carry them, and I have seen them in Sports Authority, they run fifty dollars on up as I remember, but I would pay one hundred if I had to.

In the last eight years the stones have been dropped, reglued into the holders, worn down into a curve, and they still work fine.

Keep oiling the stones and wiping them clean with a cloth rag, they will go five hundred miles.

-- Tom Beckner (tbeckner@erols.com), May 24, 1999.


Thanks everyone, just ordered the kit. Can't make it without a sharp knife.

-- thinkIcan (thinkIcan@make.it), May 24, 1999.

I have owned a Lansky sharpening system since 1980, and I recommend it.

For the sake of balance, I would like to offer another URL, this one for a competitor called Razor Edge Systems. The fellow there claims to have invented the clamp concept used by Lanksy.

http://www.razoredgesystems.com

-- GA Russell (garussell@russellga.com), May 25, 1999.


Will one of you guys go to Ron's link above and look at the Standard vs. the Deluxe kits? Need someone with experience to tell me if the Deluxe is really much better than the Standard.

Am going to order one for Father's Day for DH. He is an engineer and loves gadgets and shiny things, BTW :)

Nevertheless, I don't want to get more than he needs.

Thanks.

-- Mrs Tim Taylor (jill@tooltime.com), May 26, 1999.


Hello Mrs. Tim,

My Lansky set is the standard. It has three sharpening stones.

The deluxe is the same, with two more stones whose grit is between the other three. I have never felt the need for these two other stones.

You will note that there is a new set now with a stone for serrated knives. If your husband likes the serrated blade, you should consider that set.

Don't make a final decision until you have checked out the book at the Razor Edge site which I listed. I plan to get that book, which is no longer in print and therefore no longer available from Amazon. You husband might like that too.

-- GA Russell (garussell@russellga.com), May 26, 1999.



GA-

Thanks much. I take it there's no disagreement since no one else answered :)

Mrs Tim Taylor

-- (jill@tooltime.com), May 26, 1999.


My Lansky is great. I originally got the five hone deluxe set. As above poster remarked, I've found little need for the other two hones. The medium hone seems the most useful of the five. What has really worked well for me though are the Lansky diamond hones. They seem to cut the harder stainless blades much faster than the regular hones. My usual routine is to cut a 20 degree edge with the Lansky set-up and then maintain the fine edge with a large ceramic crock stick just like you would with a regular butcher steel.

-- jeff (jdevore@prodigy.net), May 27, 1999.

I am a meatcutter. I use a standard three sided meatcutters stone, you will find one of these in every meat dept. I'm always looking for A BETTER WAY TO SHARPEN A KNIFE! I ordered the "lansky system". I can tell you this is a joke. If I were to make the mistake of taking this pitiful "sharpening tool" in to the meatroom, I would be laughed out of the building. for the record, I bought the diamond system, the expensive one.

-- ed (edrider007@aol.com), June 29, 1999.

I have just ordered the razors edge ultimate package. It looks a lot better. I will let you know. sign me off as "very dissapointed in the lansky"

-- ed (edrider007@aol.com), June 29, 1999.

I received in the mail last week the book I mentioned above, John Juranitch's The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening, and I read it immediately.

Juranitch is very persuasive.

He recommends: 1) Use only two stones, the first very coarse and the second very smooth.

2) Do not oil the stones.

3) Every time you sharpen the knife, wear down the entire blade side (what he calles the "relief").

Juranitch's clamps are not like the Lansky system. There are no rods involved. So I apparently misstated his claim above. Juranitch recommends large stones. The clamp rubs against the stone, thus maintaining the angle.

I also purchased a nifty tool called the Edge Tester. It indicates to the novice whether he is finished or needs to continue.

It looks to me like the Razor Edge products are too expensive, but if they work well the high price won't be your biggest mistake in life.

-- GA Russell (ga.russell@usa.net), June 30, 1999.



I have received my razors edge kit. and you all thought I'd forget to report back, as promised, didn't you? well, it is a lot better than the lansky. the stones are excellant, and the guides work much better than the lansky. the lansky is a joke, at best. the stone's are just way to small. if you order the razor's edge, get the eight inch stone's. do not make the mistake of getting the six inch stones, just to save a couple bucks. these are some nice stones, and the guides provided are much better than the 'lansky'.

-- ed (edrider007@aol.com), July 03, 1999.

The following excerpt is from the official US Government Peace Corps Manual for volunteers working in the Amazon Jungle. It details what to do if an anaconda attacks you... Related to the boa constrictor, the anaconda is the largest snake species in the world. It grows to thirty-five feet in length and weighs 300 to 400 pounds.

1. If you are attacked by an anaconda, do not run. The snake is faster than you are.

2. Lie flat on the ground. Put your arms tight against your sides, your legs tight against one another.

3. Tuck your chin in.

4. The snake will begin to nudge and climb over your body.

5. Do not panic.

6. After the snake has examined you, it will begin to swallow you from the feet end - always from the feet end. Permit the snake to swallow your feet and ankles. Do not panic!

7. The snake will now begin to suck your legs into its body. You must lie perfectly still. This will take a long time.

8. When the snake has reached your knees slowly and with as little movement as possible, reach down, take your knife and very gently slide it into the side of the snake's mouth between the edge of its mouth and your leg, then suddenly rip upwards, severing the snake's head.

9. Be sure you have your knife.

10. Be sure your knife is sharp.

-- Andy (2000EOD@prodigy.net), July 03, 1999.


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