Mt blanc from cosmiques : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

We are planning on attempting Mt. Blanc this early August.

We wish to stay at the Cosmiques Hut and travel from there. Do you have any information on this route or could you point me in the direction to find information?

Also, where is the crux of this route?

-- Cory W Skluzak (, April 29, 1999


For a few general notes, check the "The Three-Mont-Blanc route" on my survey of the regular routes to Mont Blanc. The crux is probably the NF of Mt Maudit and its bergshrunk. For more info, get a guidebook in Chamonix and ask at the OHM.

-- Quang-Tuan Luong (, April 29, 1999.

The cosmiques was closed at the end of last season due to foundation faults and I do not think it is one yet. The best place to check is the chamonix tourist office they'll know. If it is open you better book early as it is very popular now as this is a safer route than the Gouter, much nicer as well and only a bit harder. The hut is very expensive though! If your looking for info any guide will normally have the route in and upstairs at the Guides office in Chamonix has a route book. Have a good time it's a great day out.

-- Sandy Paterson (, May 04, 1999.

Dear Cory, I did this route in early august '97 and there were no difficulties. There was a very clear track. Mr. Luong is right though, Maudit is the crux. Try to move fast below the seracs. If Cosmiques is a problem: my partner and I slept at rifugio Torino. Just a few hours more... We got up at about 3 AM and reached the summit at 11:00. I think we were back at the hut before 16:00. Take enough water! Good luck! Peter.

-- Peter Verburgh (, May 25, 1999.


You seem to be somewhat of a info whore on this Cosmiques Route. I suggest you not ask for so much information and climb it in the true fashion of a mountaineer. Knowing too much will only distroy the intended adverture of mountaineering. So pull your ice axe out of your #&&^%&# and go climb the (&(#&%& thing.



-- Epingle Tete (, May 25, 1999.

I think epingle suffers from ice axe envy, apparently he has a tinee weenee ice axe which would explain his rather cliched response to cory's question

-- Guy wolfgang (guy, March 27, 2001.

I too will be looking at attempting Mt Blanc from the Cosmique and than dropping down to the Tete Rousse refuge if I am too wiped. I am having a hard time getting photos and map info stteside other than the word of a friend who lives there who will give me the beta when I arrive. Hey as Austin Poweres says "I'm the boss, need the info" stick that up you *&^ Eingle

-- laurel arndt (, August 14, 2002.

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