Hi! We are a bunch of finnish climbers and we are planning to climb the Mt Blanc again. Last year we did the Three-Mont-Blanc route and after that we have been concentrating on ice fall climbing. Summer is getting close and again we find ourselves planning a trip, something more serious than last summer. We would be really happy if you who have climbed the Brenva spur or other similar climbs to Mt Blanc would give your thoughts and tips for us. At the moment we are planning to take the task in the end of june. It's very hard to find any climbing books here in Finland. Mountaineering is not very popular here. Well thanks already!!

Tero-Pekka

-- Tero-Pekka Alastalo (terala@utu.fi), April 19, 1999

Answers

Brenva is a nice route, shielded from avalanches etc. once you are on the rigde, however, you will have to pass some steep ice at the top, and the route changes from year to year, ask in the mountain-office for the current conditions, and best to pass the icefall. Expect alot of crampon-scratching on the lower mixed part, and plan for a long day, take a single 8.5 mill. rope, a small rack plus two-three icescrews. We went over the summit and down the "normal normal" route. I've heard the Giglione hut is gone (could anyone confirm this?), so you have to use the other one (dont remember the name though).

Good luck.

-- Paal Longva (plongva@uclink4.berkeley.edu), April 23, 1999.