BACKUP POWER. A FINAL CHOICE FOR ONE FAMILY.

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I hope the following long post will prove to be useful to readers who are considering an electrical backup system to provide emergency power for their home in the event of a power failure. We live in the Midwest and even in normal years we are very prone to have storm related power outages. The thought of a more protracted 'storm' than we are used to only increased our desire to provide such a backup system. We live in a small town urban environment. Our choices outlined below certainly won't fit everyone, but perhaps the thought process will help you avoid the mistakes we made, improve your judgment and save you money.

Consideration number one. Just what form of backup power should seriously be considered? We looked at three alternatives, the first of which was solar energy. Because we have many trees in our yard, solar generated power was out of the question. Our DSS satellite dish works very well pointed through a tree or two, but not solar. It was a no brainer. The second alternative was to possibly use wind energy. A wind charger might have worked, but the trees come into play here as well, not to mention the picky neighbors as well as restrictive construction covenants. Naw! Either of these options would require some combination of batteries, converters and control circuitry, etc. to make it all go. Initial cost outlay to get enough wattage also starts to become a factor for some, even though it can be proven that these systems will pay for themselves over a period of years. Anyway, after going through this sort of selection process, we came to the simple conclusion that an electric generator would do what we want it to do and that it would prove to be the most flexible choice for us over the long run. Inherent in this decision was our personal choice that we really didn't want to get into the power generation business on a day-to-day basis. It would have been fun when we were younger. Not now.

So then. What kind of generator and what type of fuel and engine to drive it? Our automobiles are gas burners, if not gas guzzlers, so unused gasoline can always be burned in the cars. Diesel fuel stores very well and is much safer than gasoline, but apart from its use in a diesel generator, we have no need for diesel. We burn natural gas in our furnace and water heater, so another option came into question. Why not buy a generator with a multi-fuel carb on the engine and get the best of all worlds; as in purchasing a tri-fuel generator that can burn gasoline, natural gas or propane? It could be semi permanently connected. Most weather related storms do not knock out the supply of natural gas. A multi-fuel generator could be a great long term user of ready fuel supplies. But what if a more wide-spread problem caused the natural gas pipelines to lose pressure? No problem. We're buying the thing for the long term. Right? Let's consider a tri-fuel, but it must also have all of the other important operating characteristics we're looking for and it must be available in that configuration.

Apart from the concern about quality of construction, here is where those 'other operating characteristics' came in. The first tri-fuel generator I bought for our business in late 1998 was of mid quality construction. It did feature a nice electric start Honda engine, and it seemed to satisfy our business power backup needs just fine, but it did not provide clean power. Oops! The power output was so distorted (dirty) that the uninterruptible power supplies (UPSs) that protect our computer network would not even recognize that a generator voltage was present. I put a scope on the outlet to look first-hand at the power coming out of that generator. The power curve looked so jagged you could scarcely see the peaks of the AC sine wave. It was a real rookie mistake on my part not to have checked the spec. The sad thing is I should have known better. Oh, well. The good news was that I sold the generator within a few days to a person who didn't care about clean output. Tri-fuel generators with Honda engines were in short supply, even then. Potential cost of the mistake, $1,451 plus shipping.

As most of you probably know by now, dirty AC power can literally wreck your sensitive appliances in minutes, particularly electronics. An unbalanced power grid can likewise do great damage when it provides only 80 volts rather than the normal 120 volts or so, or if it goes out of its normal 60hz frequency - phase. Please don't forget that little tip, just in case it comes in handy. Though a severe brownout can be a most damaging cause of appliance damage, it fortunately is rare. Some experts would strongly suggest that it is far better to completely shut off the utility supplied power under sustained conditions of brownouts if you care the least bit about the health of your electrical appliances. The subject of power quality is cause for much debate among engineers, techs and power sellers. Check out the Westergaard archives.

Now to the home generator we bought and stayed with. We opted to buy a good sized gasoline-only generator. It puts out 11.5 kw of continuous clean power. Our thinking was to buy a bigger one and keep it. Size is relative to your personal view and power needs. To size the thing just add up the wattage of what electrical devices you desire to run at once - or multiply the amperage rating times the voltage (120 volts) to get the wattage for each appliance, motor, etc. We ended up selecting a NorthStar Pro Series 13000 manufactured in Minnesota. It is advertised as putting out low distortion power - under 6% - and it more than delivers on that promise. It has a Honda V Twin engine with electric start. I ordered the generator in 1998 in anticipation of demand outstripping supply. That has now happened and I'm not certain if a person can even get one until very late in 1999, if at all. Availability seems to be varying by geographical area, but most of you who are serious about generators know that by now. Anyway, no tri-fuels with those operating characteristics mentioned above were available at the time I was anxious to order it, and for the price range I was considering. The NorthStar cost right at $3,000. The sky is the limit for generator features and cost. You may need only a smaller rated one, but don't go too low on the quality curve unless your intent is is to use it in very light service. But my feeling is that it still isn't worth it, unless of course, your budget says it must be so. You generally get what you pay for, but salesmen are salesmen too.

Fuel storage. The generator uses roughly a gallon of gasoline an hour. Ouch! Where in heavens name can a person store enough gasoline to provide sufficient peace of mind to justify the generator purchase in the first place? Ya gotta remember our long run thinking. It's not just for that one-time lingering storm. Okay? Also, we must think conservation. If you live in a cold climate and have a couple of kerosene heaters, etc., you don't have to run the generator continuously. You don't have to run it continuously anyway. Further, a generator is of no use to ignite a furnace if there is no natural gas to ignite. Still, how much fuel do we want and what do we want to store it in? It isn't wise at all to store gasoline in the home or home garage. Even with judicious care, you risk becoming a living advertisement for your local fire department. You know. News story at eleven. We're fortunate in that we have a decent sized utility shed on our premises and its 100 feet from the house. I can stick a 300 gallon tank in the shed, but I still need containers to transfer the gasoline. We bought ten plastic jerry cans (for just under ten bucks each) for transport and storage and I did order a used 300 gallon tank that comes free with the fillup. That's a total of 365 gallons. Do the math and remember the word conservation. When the storm is over, the unused gas goes into the cars and the tank goes back to the oil distributor. In the meantime, if I have to, I'll keep the gas as fresh as possible with a gasoline conditioner.

The decision about the method of electrical wiring hook-up is next. Here is where you can spend some cash, or save some money through a variety of lower cost alternatives. We did it up scale. An electrician friend wired the garage and power panel. He connected optional inside garage or outside garage generator input receptacles. The 240 volt receptacles run to the power panel on heavy number six wire. Installed below the power panel is a new double pole double throw switch box (transfer switch) that insures only one power source can be feeding the house at a time - in from the grid or in from the generator. It's a Square D switch rated at 100 amps to match our electrical service because all power passes through the switch. A less costly alternative is to buy a smaller generator and connect it directly to the appliance, or through an independent transfer switch, possibly powering a limited number of circuits you select. Remember to throw the main bus breaker if you do any of this without a transfer switch, or hey, you might be on the news at eleven. The final cost for the hook-up will be right at $700. Expensive, but absolutely safe!

Final Costs.

Generator $3,000 5kw unit for around $1,000 or so? Freight 220 Pick it up yourself and save Wiring 700 Possible to do it yourself, but... Jerry Cans (10, 6.5 gal) 100 Irritating screw caps. Blitz brand. Gasoline (365 gal) 365 Cost in December 1999? Gas Conditioner (1 gal) 21 STA-BIL brand or equivalent. Peace of Mind ?,???

Total Cost $4,406 So how does it work? Great! Is it noisy? Sure. Will it attract an element better served by our jails? It might. You tell me how bad the storm will be and I'll tell you if it has to be defended with buck shot. But, there's nary a flicker or much we can't run. Talk about protecting an engrained life style. (Criticisms of this remark about life style will be both understood and tolerated. Again, it's a personal choice.)

"But just remember, Bob, the cost of the installation will be recovered in the increased value of your home." So says a realtor acquaintance of mine who really didn't want to be too critical of our decisions since he might just get a chance to sell the property some day.

Keep the faith!

BW



-- Bob Walton (waltonb@kdsi.net), March 21, 1999

Answers

Sorry the cost table didn't come through in original format, but you'll get the idea.

-- Bob Walton (waltonb@kdsi.net), March 21, 1999.

we opted to go with a diesel generator. 11.5kw mitsubishi, around $5,000. diesel fuel stores well for a long time and its safer. we also bought a diesel truck, and have oil heat/hot water for our home. an inverter cost us another $1500, and we're getting batteries that'll cost about $1,200.

-- lou (lanny1@ix.netcom.com), March 21, 1999.

We have a gas generator (4000 kw) with a 350 gal. tank of gas. We figure that if we run the generator 1 hour a day (water pump and occasional gas dryer usage) it will last close to 3 years. We are in northern Minnesota so have to think of heat too. We will close up the upstairs and use propane heaters and a wood stove for the main floor and basement as much as needed. We have a propane stove to supliment the wood stove for cooking and will shortly have 1500 gal. of propane. Our hot tub will hold water for washing and flushing and can be replenished daily if needed (bath tubs work great for this, too). We have also been buying sleeping bags that will keep a person warm to -20 F. So if worse comes to worse, we will at least be warm.

-- linda (smitmom@hotmail.com), March 21, 1999.

No flame intended but,,,,,, you gen set people are nuts! Noise, fuel, oil, if this goes to a 10, you are all dead in the water. Solar will get you up to 4 years on a battery. Solar panels ain't what they use to be, even in the northern climes! Me, I'll take a good still!

-- SCOTTY (BLehman202@aol.com), March 21, 1999.

ithink i have put in the best system for me.. 12kw diesel 2/3gal per hr. trace inverter sw 4024 100amp double throw switch 12 trojan L-16 batteries 250 amp DC disconnect switch 2 sub panels since i am a rancher i normaly stock 2000 gal of diesel for cutting hay and all the feeding for 2 tractors. i also have a ford diesel p/u this sound like a lot of diesel but i have found that if i buy it in jan or feb. i save as much as 25% on my fuel for the year. not only does this sustem run my house but it also runs the feed mill. you see i also grind all of my feed that saves me almost 25% on feed

-- bob (rcrozier@koyote.com), March 22, 1999.


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