Aid Climbing in Zion

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A friend and I are going to Zion in late March, 1999.

Can anyone provide us or point us to aid beta on the following routes:

- Space Shot on Leaning Wall (5.9, C2)

- Touchstone Wall on Cerberus Gendarme (5.9, C2)

- Organasm on The Organ (5.8, C2)

-- Dan Rampe (dan_rampe@allegis.com), March 02, 1999

Answers

Hey Dan, Well first of all, for Touchstone and Spaceshot, at that time of year, don't be bummed when you see ten parties ahead of you. Just take a number and get in line. The 3 main trade routes (Spaceshot,touchstone, and Moonlight)get HEAVY traffic in the spring. With that in mind here goes. For Spaceshot, take the Offsets (HB's and peenuts work great), tricams, and hand size cams to get onto Earth orbit. I thought that the true crux was negotiating some funky pods at the end of the bolt ladder on the first pitch on the "headwall" where some euros nailed it. Dumb asses. Flaring and tricky, the pink tricams rule it, or maybe some offset aliens. The other C2 pitch is thin, but right off a nice bolt. Sliders and small nuts make short work of it. If possible, take 60M lead and haul lines, and you can do the upper part of the wall in four long pitches to earth orbit by passing the intermediate belays. You can sleep on earth orbit it is pretty large, but it is sloping, with one small flat spot right next to the edge. When you get there, you have to set up a weird belay, then have the second walk across earth orbit to some drilled anchors. Last pitch is fun for all. I think that this route has been retrobolted by the ASCA, so you don't get the added excitement of the stardrivens on the last pitch. darn. Touchstone is often climbed in a day by faster parties that free climb the nice upper pitches. If your biving, prepare to get passed or create a log jam. Most aid is on pitches 1,2 depending how well you free climb, but the upper pitches can all be aided, save the 5.6 slab. Cool Chimney and crack pitches. Weird descent, with one flake that loves to eat ropes. Pretty obvious when you see it. Do the short rap over this feature, and save yourself a hassle. My buddy had to jug the stuck rope! YIKES! The organasm, although I have not done it looks fun, and short, and will ready you for aid climbing in the house of God. Looks cool, give it a shot to test the water. Anyway hope that helps. If you have more questions, drop me a line. I have some updated (within last year) topos if you want them. Anyway, have fun, zion is truely an amazing place. Cheers and keep headed up!

Feelio

-- Feelio Babar (mtea@ptc.com), March 03, 1999.


hey i heard the Prodical Sun (IV+ 5.8 C2) is cool. ask around for burt he has climbed it

-- Brian (slobri@aol.com), March 15, 1999.

Prodigal Son is closed for the nesting Zion turkeys until mid-late june. It is a good route though!

-- Feelio (circleheadsarebomber@hotmail.com), March 16, 1999.

THE CHICKENS ARE GONE!!!!!!!!!! That means that we can climb on Angles Landing. I saw it on a Zion site and I was just in the park, and the rangers told me it was a go. So get of the couch and go do something, if you need beta for Prodigal Son jsut e-mail me.... cheers Burt

-- Burt (epiclmber@hotmail.com), March 23, 1999.

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