A very practical question. Coleman warn that if you run one of their dual-fuel stoves on unleaded gasoline rather than (hideously expensive) Coleman fuel, it will clog up. Anyone know how long before this happens? A real problem or a sales incentive for their own fuel?

Also, what is the clogging material (in detail, not "gasoline additives" please!) Is it seriously toxic? Can you burn it out if you make the generator tube seriously hot with a blowlamp, or wash it out with a solvent?

-- Nigel Arnot (nra@maxwell.ph.kcl.ac.uk), February 15, 1999

Answers

Since 1992 I've used mine for (my best guess) about 50 hours, all with unleaded gas. When I last used it (August) it worked fine. However, I plan to get it out and use it for a test run in the next couple of weeks, and will be replacing the pump/generator since it's relatively inexpensive ($7.00 at K-Mart). I'll take a look at the old one, and try cleaning it with Gumout, and let you know what I find......

-- Online2Much (mrmarlin@rocketmail.com), February 15, 1999.

The diference between "White Gas" and "Unleaded Fuel" is both chemical ("White Gas" is truly water-clear Naptha, and "Unleaded Fuel" is auto-fuel) and purity, which in "White Gas" is much higher than in fuel. I would strongly recommend against Gumout or other line cleaners.

If you consider the construction of the generator, you will understand. If memory serves (it's been a couple years since I took one apart) there is a ceramic core and a spring in teh center of the generator, which assists in the effort to evaporate and/or vaporize the fuel for burning. "Clogging" may be either at the orifice at the end of the generator or intrinsically to the ceramic insert.

Cleaning the orifice is easy. The cleaning needle in either an old, old stove )Primus, etc.) or in the repair kits for MSR, and other stoves will be perfect for cleaning the orifice. (Fuel injector cleaning neeedles, if such exist would also work.)

Cleaning the ceramic insert or the interior of the generator is not going to be worth the effort for what small success you may find.

The easy way is to purchase a couple generators as stock/barter items. They aren't THAT expensive.

OOOOPS!!! DUH!! Thanks to the hand in the back!! I forgot that you may not be aware of the construction of the stove. The Generator is the long tube perpendicular to the tank, which runs through the flame area of the primary burner. This is fairly easy to replace.

-- Chuck, night driver (rienzoo@en.com), February 15, 1999.

PS to Online2much::: the pump and generator are two different parts. Generaros may be about 8 - 15 dols.

CR

-- Chuck, night driver (rienzoo@en.com), February 15, 1999.

Thanks Chuck,

Although I've used these for quite a few years, I've never taken one apart, and have never studied the construction of one, but it looks like I need to. I had planned to go over mine carefully in the next week or two - after realizing my ignorance on the construction, it just went up a lot higher on my priority scale :)

-- Online2Much (_@_._), February 15, 1999.

The actual pump unit should last indefinitely. Though it may tend to dry out. The older versions used a leather plunger which you can lubricate with automotive lithium grease or even vasoline. The newer versions are synthetic rubber.

As to the generators, i've tried cleaning out several but never had much success, I'd buy SEVERAL spares. The guys I've talked to say it's particles of coke that clog things up, which isn't somehting that dissolves readily. (it might burn out in a charcoal fire.) Treat the needle valve gently, deforming it will prevent a good seal for shutoff.

-- smurfunet (smurfunet@mushroomvillage.com), February 15, 1999.