Aid Climbing in Scotland and Europe : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

I would like to do some aid climbing, and was wondering if there were any routes to practice on in Scotland or wether I should just clean aid some free routes. Also are there any easy routes in the Alps that could be done which are not in the high mountains. Any good book ideas on aid climbing and route guide ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks very much


-- Sandy Paterson (, January 11, 1999


If you start banging pitons into the rock in Scotland, you'll get lynched. Likewise aiding up any free routes. The best way to practice aid techniques is to find a quarry or something similar that has no free-climbing on it, and practice away. There are loads and loads of valley climbs in the alps - visit a library or climbing shop with a good selection of books (both Tiso's and Nevisport sell guides for the Alps in English) will give you a good idea of what to expect. Good luck!

-- dave virdee (, April 19, 1999.

For some older, not not out-dated, information on aid climbing in Scotland and Europe, check out the book "Big Wall Climbing" by Doug Scot. You will have to find this book at a library or a used bookstore (where I got a copy), since it was published in 1974. Much of the information about the climbing areas will still be relevant, but make sure you do clean aiding on climbs that have been climbed clean.

-- Mark A. Fletcher (, August 10, 1999.

Just go out and clean-aid routes. It's usually raining in Scotland, so nobody will be any the wiser. Seriously, so long as you don't bang in pegs or copperheads and just stick to nuts, cams and hooks, I see no problem, AND it's really good practice. People do Left Wall In Wales on clean aid all the time. Have Fun

-- rich (, January 27, 2000.

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