Modern routes on Grandes Jorasses : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread

My two collegues and I are about to go the Alps this summer. We are planning to climb the Eiger and Grandes Jorasses in this adventure. As you imagine it is difficult to get information about the climbing course in the Alps, especially about Grandes Jorasses. Many Koreans have climbed 'Eiger','Mattehorn', and 'Monc Blanc' for many years. But very few climbed 'Grandes Jorasses', so we eagerly want to try this North Wall in this summer.

If you have any course (such as 'Rolling Stones','Goulotte mcintyre Colton','Alexis','Bonatti-vaucher','No siesta','Manitua','Le chemin des etiles','Espanola',and 'Espolon marguerite' etc) description and map..., of Grandes Jorasses. please let me know.

-- Lee Eung Bok (, June 22, 1998


Bonatti-Vaucher is described in the Vallot guidebook. McIntyre Colton might be too.

Some of the other routes are probably too recent to have been reported elsewhere than in journals. The only topo of No Siesta has been published by the second ascensionists in Vertical #105. I presume that this is the case for Chemin des Etoiles too, ie you have to find the issue of Vertical with the article by Lafaille. you get the idea.

You might want however to check the new guidebook by Perroux and Damilano that I don't have. Another thing to do once you are in chamonix is to ask at OHM. They have a register for new routes which include unpublished topos.

-- Quang-Tuan Luong (, June 22, 1998.

Hello, Their is a large number of quality "modern" routes to attempt on the Jorrace would be Rolling Stones, Manitua or No Siesta along with Serge Guissault and the Walker Direct. Unfortunatly most hard routes are best attempted out of season or during winter conditionsconsidering in full summer condition, including the modern ice routes (MacItyre,Slovian, Extream dream) and mixed routes are best attempted out of season or during winter for obvouis reasons. All topo's are available from the guides office. if anyone needs any iformation on thies route including info and topo's E -mail me. Sorry about the spelling! Cheers Andy K

-- Andy Kirk[patrick (, June 26, 1998.

The best "new" modern route on the grands Jo is certainly the No Siesta which has seen several repetitons this winter / spring. As of present nearly all of the ice / mixed routes on the N Face are in good shape. Hope you have fun climbing. Francis

-- Francis Kelsey (AAA, July 20, 1998.

You can find this information in my personal web:


But it's in spanish. At the moment there are all the descriptions of the Grandes Jorasses' North Face (and shortly the topos). Also, there is a photo-gallery about the alps and Walker Spur, the history, a short story about the climb of Walker Spur, bibliography, links...

And it's very fast to visit. Enjoy!

-- Rad (, February 10, 2001.

ATTENTION!!! the "" web has changed. The new url is "". I think that new version is better than old version.

Post Data: the information about Grandes Jorasses and Walker Spur is in " (spanish language).

-- caranorteman (, November 20, 2002.

What can you tell me about No Siesta route , can you tell me details about this route? But what about Colton-McIntyre ? Thank you very much. Best regards Manzatu Ioni

-- Manzatu Ioni (, April 08, 2003.

I am also looking at the Grandes Jorasses for this summer but am thinking of something a little easy. ie. Gefforey Winthrop Young and Co's 1910 route i think its easy-ish (about my standard). You may wish to look at this site ( ) for info on the Grandes Jorasses - North Face Routes: "No Siesta" and "Eldorado". however you need to get the right time of year. off peak. for any stuff on the north face. In the BMC (British Mountaineering Council) Mag Summit issue 30. not yet on the web but the address is:- it points out that all Grandes Jorasses Summits can all be reached from the rocher du reposoir. Also that to take in the new four UIAA summits a complete traverse of the Grandes Jorasses with either a start or finish along the Rochefort Ridge could be done. these may not be the routes you had in mind but they are a few options for us mortal folks. hope some of this info is of use to some folks. thanks to all info sources.

-- James Mash (James, June 06, 2003.

Sorry, my web has changed the url another time. You can find the information about the north face of Grandes Jorasses in the next url: If you have any suggestion, please tell me:

-- caranorteman (, January 09, 2004.

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