If anyone has done routes in the Fishers, or has route information, that would be helpful. Also, I could use some rack specs. I would like info on nailing routes, as well as clean routes. what are the racks and rating's of the Finger of Fate, and some of the other "trade" routes? Cottontail tower? Kingfisher?

-- M.Tea (mtea@ptc.com), June 22, 1998

Answers

For the Finger of Fate, I'd bring as many 1-2" angles as you have, particularly 1.5" angles. The crux is a sequence of square holes 1" on a side and maybe 2" deep. Supposedly you can rig tri-cams in them but 1.5" angles are the best. You don't even have to hammer most of them in.

The standard route on the Kingfisher has much easier aid and probably best to do first to get used to the rock. The rock does take some getting used to, even "simple 5.5 moves" can be pretty scary when your pro is a laughable bolt 5' below in a mud curtain and your handholds appear rounded blobs of compacted sand. On the Kingfisher, you can get by with only 4 assorted pitons (the route was recently done clean, so it can be done with 0). Ancient Art is also a way cool route and it doesn't require a big rack (no pitons, the aid is all bolt ladders).

You will find a trip report on the Titan on my home page: http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/6260/ under memorable climbs.

-George

-- George Bell (bell@advtech.uswest.com), June 22, 1998.

I have climbed Finger of Fate, Colorado NE Ridge and a new route on Cottontail. If you want any beta, just email me

-- Chris Van Leuven (turbospazm@yahoo.com), March 09, 1999.