Defensible Home Designs

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If we get to a very worse case scenario in 2000 and beyond - including mobile marauders - then even if you have moved out of a big city to a small town or secluded farm, what kind of considerations should go into remodeling or designing a new home such that it doesn't look like a weird fortress, yet is reasonably defensible? While lots of glass windows are great in our reasonably peaceful present, I'm not sure thats the best for the worst that "could" come. Has anything useful been written on this that is available? A friend who builds log homes says that logs take bullets better that stick and frame. Quien sabe? Is paranoia an adult response to reality?

-- Victor Porlier (vporlier@aol.com), January 04, 1998

Answers

I've heard it said that paranoia is a heightened sense of reality. Anyway defensible land and house structure could indeed be a consideration. It would be if you came to need it and didn't have it - that's for certain.

Survival Retreat by Ragnor Benson - http://www.paladin-press.com (This book provides good common sense information about staying put or going to the country and how to prepare both physically and mentally. Ragnor Benson speaks from real world experiences of defending and defeating retreats around the world.)

Triple Ought by James Wesley Rawles - http://www.teleport.com/~ammon/gn/contents.htm (Very good novel that is basically a mini-retreat survivalists handbook. Good stuff - lots of useful information. If your serious about a remote retreat this a must read book.)

Good luck,

William

-- William Preston (william_preston@hotmail.com), January 06, 1998.


The various books by Bruce Clayton have ideas on hardening a house. There is also a book by Joel(?) Skousen on Retreat Housing. A good resource for books on these matters is Loompanics and Paladin Press, both on the Internet (though not their full catalog at last look). Desert Press also has some interesting titles.

The best tactic is to never be attacked. If your property permits it, getting a junk mobile home and a junk car or two dragged to a visable site (assuming your real house is not visable from the road) on your property to make it look like the vandels have already struck this location might help you avoid the casual looter.

Another technique is to become very valuable to your neighbors by being THE source of pure water if that is scarce, or some other resource or service that others need.

-- Ken Seger (kenseger@primary.net), January 10, 1998.


I found a product from 3M that might help.. it's some sort of film that gives glass a higher resistance against smashing or vandalism. I don't know what kind of protection it affords against bullets and such, if any, but I'm sure it's better than nothing. Here's a description I grabbed off the 3M website:

3M(TM) Scotchshield(TM) Ultra Safety and Security Film is a tough, durable, tear- and penetration-resistant shield that bonds to the inside of your windows. The film helps hold the glass together to dramatically reduce the chance of glass shards from falling or flying out during violent weather and/or "smash and grab" theft.

-- Enrique Flores (optik@texas.net), February 11, 1998.


There is a discussion on hardening rural and suburban retreats on Gary North's forums. Go to www.garynorth.com/y2k and find the discussion forums, then the "securing your home" open forum. You'll even find info on Joel Skousen's book (he's moderating the forum).

Keep the Positive Mindset.

-- Lane Dexter (madison_6@hotmail.com), February 15, 1998.


Having lived in both urban and rural environments has yielded the decision that rural is better. Some discussion was provided on North's web site regarding the hardening of a home in the event of mauraders or whatever. Rather than hardening the home which could be diffi- cult at best, it would be more appropriate to build a second one-story structure conveniently situated with a birdseye view and root cellar & possibly a drilled well. Construction could begin with re-enforced concrete in the form of a kneewall to a height of 4 feet above grade, the remainder of wood-frame, metal siding (fire prevention) and metal roof. Super-insulate, provide wood burning cookstove, windows of the awning (cellar-sized) positioned at a height of 5-6 ft from ground level with that same birdseye viewpoint. Instead of nice colonial style window trim - install steel bracketts on bottom and 2 sides to hold half inch steel plate the size of awning windows for nite time use, which along with outside security person will help prevent the use of glass windows to disturb sleeping occupants with surprise "flying objects". The size of this structure would depend on whether the departed family has decided to return to the "nest" for comfort, rest and relaxa- tion. Ideal size for 2-3 might be 16'x24' -- then again if you need a larger "nest", maybe 24'x40'....are there other thoughts out there?

-- j.w.parker (j.w.parker@usa.net), February 28, 1998.


I prefer the idea of addressing this issue by trying to avoid it in the first place. My martial arts instructor from a long time ago was quite capable in his profession, but always chose to use his head to leave an altercation first. He only fought using his martial arts when: 1) teaching the South Korean Special Forces, or 2) it was the only way he could leave a situation. Made quite an impression upon a youngster back then.

Thus, I'm casting about for *really* remote places, possibly of the kind that take a week to hike into. I'm already investing into a trained protection dog.

-- Anthony Yen (tyen@netcom.com), March 05, 1998.


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