Developing Ilford Films

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I've been developing my own film (mostly Kodak Products) for about a year now and am use to a certain process, BUT, I recently purchased some Ilford HP5+. According to thier spec sheets, no stop is used after development and recommendations for washing uses no hypo wash. This is fine with me. Could anyone let me know if I am understanding this correctly or am I missing something?

Thanks Phillip

-- Phillip Allen (pierron@aol.com), December 15, 1997

Answers

You can use your current successfull method on Ilford films. I would definitely stick with stop bath and hypo clear.

-- Tim Brown (brownt@ase.com), December 15, 1997.

I think it's just that they don't mention stop or hypo clear. The Kodak spec sheet http://www.kodak.com/ppiHome/technicalPubs/ePubs/f32ManualProcess100_400.shtml doesn't mention stop, hypo clear or even fixer, but that doesn't mean don't fix your film!

-- Alan Gibson (gibson.al@mail.dec.com), December 15, 1997.

Ilford does not recommend Acid Bath while developing their film. I think the reason is that the interaction between an alkaline developer and acid in the stop may be harsh on the film. I have developed many rolls this way with great results. Tempered water is used instead of stop and it should stop further development quite satisfactorily. Also Ilford does not recommend Fixers with hardener, and therefore its quite easy to get rid of the hypo with shorter wash times, and hypo clearing agents are not necessary. They may however are useful when hardener is added as this reduces the wash time. However, Kodak does feel that the hardener causes the film to become more resistant to scrathing. Again, I had no difficulty using Ilford method to get great looking negatives. My 2 Cents. Hasan

-- Hasan Ali (hasan2@msn.com), December 16, 1997.

I use water instead of stop bath. I have tried stop bath, but the negatives are prone to develop pin holes. These are small tiny dots that appear on the film. Occassionally I get them, but it is rare with a water bath. If the stop bath is too strong and likewise the fixer, it can cause pin holes. I use perma wash after fixing. You can be assured of a complete wash since it neutralizes the fixer. It helps remove magenta stains on t-max and delta films. It also neutralizes the tank, reels, etc. I use a stainless steel tank and remove everything with dishwashing detergent before storing. The first thing you are going to put in your tank the next time you develop film is film developer. You definitely don't want to mix developer with residues of fixer. Perma wash and other clearing agents don't mix so well with developer, so make sure everything is throughly cleaned after use.

-- Kenneth Williams (loftacall@email.msn.com), April 30, 1998.

I became sick of The Great Gold God years ago and now use Japanese & European films and have found very little difference in developing them but I use D-76 almost exclusively. Always stop and fix films. No permenance otherwise.

-- H. David Huffman (craptalk@ix.netcom.com), May 11, 1999.


I would like to thank each of you for responding to my question. All responses are welcome and appreciated.

Thanks

-- Phillip R. Allen (pierron@aol.com), December 23, 1997.


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