Spring ascent of MB (2004)

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Hi, I am planning a trip to Chamonix for the first two weeks of April. One of the main reasons for the trip is to climb MB. I have the guide books/maps etc and have done a fair bit of research on the various routes. Either going to go via MB du Tacul and MM, or via the Grand Mulets hut. Planning the ascent in snowshoes (although taking crampons in pack). I am after any information anyone may have regarding spring ascents of MB and also on the condition of the mountain. Also, has the hot summer had a lasting regarding snow bridges / cravasses etc. Any info gratefully recieved.

-- veronica smith (veronica_smith6@hotmail.com), January 23, 2004


At the moment, a spring attempt to MB is a bit too premature. Winter snowfall has been exceptional, and temperatures almost constantly low, basically negating the damage done by this summer high temperatures. The risk is finding the MB Du Tacul/Maudit route dangerous for high winds and heavy snow, and the Grand Mulets impracticable for avalanches.

Every MB ascent be done using crampons and a piolet (or alternatively using skis, on the lower part of the Grand Mulets), because some bit of both routes amust re moderately steep.

If I was in you, I should check the meteo on the Chamonix or Courmayeur guides, and plan a late spring attempt (May - early June). You may consider doing the Italian normal if you want more variety and a lower altitude hut for the night before the summmit.

Mail me if you need other informations

Luca Signorelli Torino - Italy

-- Luca Signorelli (lucasignorelli@aliceposta.it), February 01, 2004.

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