knife sharpening - what's best?

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Hi, all -- I need to sharpen some older, used knives, for use with our first poultry processing. They need to be quite sharp, as I don't want to have to make second cuts. What's the best thing to use? I don't know what "make" of knives they are; I purchased them used from a poultry farmer. They seem sharp now (can cut through most fresh produce with a good, clean cut), but they just don't seem quite sharp enough for their intended purpose. Any suggestions on how to sharpen a dull knife and then keep it good and sharp?

Thanks!

-- Andrea, Big Flats NY (andreagee@aol.com), April 21, 2002

Answers

A good steel is essential for tuning up the sharp on a meat knife.

-- charlieS (charliesap@pldi.net), April 21, 2002.

For those having a hard time keeping the blade at the right angle to sharpen, a product with a Jorkel lable available at Fred Meyers is a handy tool. It has a 2 diamond sharpeners in a v shape so that the knife is drawn through the notch and sharpened at the same angle every time. I bought one for my wife and use it more than she does. It may not be the tool of a perfectionist, but it is ideal for the average user.

-- Mac in AK (nospam@no.Spam), April 21, 2002.

While I have used a steel to touch up a sharp knife, I prefer to use an Arkansas oil whetstone.

There are a couple of thoughts on sharpening on stones. Some say to use a stone wet with water, some say oil, still others say to use a dry stone. I really think the kind of stone determines which you use. I always use oil.

I prefer to sharpen my knives with them held flatter against the stone than the original angle of sharpening. I think they stay sharp longer.

I draw the knife toward me along the stone, and make sure that the entire length of blade is drawn along the stone. I have an 8 inch length stone and wish that it was a couple of inches longer for my chef's knife. Once you have drawn the knife toward you, turn it over and do the edge on the other side as you take the knife away from you. Back and forth until it gets pretty sharp. For the final couple of pulls I steepen the angle I'm hold the knife to the stone and use lighter pressure. This helps to get rid of any curl of metal that may have formed. Purists would probably strop the knife on leather, or use a steel to get the final edge.

If you have to buy a stone, make sure it is a rather fine one. A course one will just tear microscopic chunks out of your blade, making the sharpening process seem faster.

Oh yeah, instead of drawing a knife toward me and away from me, I used to run it in circles along the blade. First one side and then the other. That's the only way I could get a knife sharp when first learning. The thing is, do what works for you and refine that process from time to time.

Good luck. Remember, it is a dull knife that will cut you. That is unless we are talking about my ex. She always found out the hard way after I had sharpened the kitchen knives.

-- Notforprint (Not@thekeyboard.com), April 21, 2002.


I'll basically agree with gr- um, Notforprint about how to use a stone. I use a double-sided stone, one side medium, one fine; but I only use the medium side for things like axes, spades and hoes. I use the fine stone (with oil) to shape a knife blade, but I then use a steel to put the final edge on it. Oh yes, always remember to assess the surface of your stone, and clean it up with kerosene or petrol (gasoline) and an old toothbrush occasionally, otherwise the pores of the stone will get clogged with old oil, pulverised stone, and steel shavings.

If you can find an opportunity, go and watch an old-fashioned butcher at work. He'll use a steel on his blades just about every time he uses them - take out the blade and steel, couple of strokes each side with the knife on the steel, put the steel away and start cutting. That's all it takes to keep a slicing blade sharp - chopping blades need a bit more work.

Oh. yes - I'll let you all - particularly ladies - into a secret. You can't cut yourself if you don't put any part of yourself in front of the blade. You WILL cut yourself if you have habits that have you cutting towards yourself. PLEASE always cut away from you, PLEASE never put any part of yourself in front of a cutting instrument. I don't know why, but it seems a common practice for women to habitually ignore this basic safety practice. Makes my flesh crawl whenever I see it - which is about every time I see a woman in the kitchen who hasn't been professionally trained as either a cook or a carpenter or a knife-fighter. Think about it - how many of you hold an item against your thumb, then work the knife through the item towards your thumb? Terrifying! Chopping boards were made for a reason.

Andrea, in response to your question, I wouldn't see any need for anything more than a good steel. Note that there are bad steels. Some of the best you could pick up at a garage sale for less than a dollar - back when people carved their roasts they appreciated good steels, and that what was made for and sold to them.

-- Don Armstrong (darmst@yahoo.com.au), April 22, 2002.


I have had a sharpening service for about 25 years and I tell my customers if they don't know what they are doing when trying to sharpen a knife go to a Target store in the sporting goods dept. they have a sharpener with 2 ceramic sticks in it that works very well. It is good for touching up the edge between professioal sharpenings. I think it is like $2 more or less and works great and won't make a mess of the blade.

-- Mel Kelly (melkelly@webtv.net), April 22, 2002.


I personally prefer diamond impregnated rods or paddles for sharpening knives; all you need is plain water and occasional cleaning to keep them unclogged. They particularly sharpen the harder stainless steel blades faster, in my experience. Plain carbon blades (they are the ones which discolor pretty quickly, but take a quick edge quickly also and are the preferred working man's blade) sharpen with most materials; we have even used the concrete foundation as a expedient sharpener. What has been said above is true; keep your blades sharp and you will be working safer.

Hope this helps.

-- j.r. guerra in s. tx. (jrguerra@boultinghousesimpson.com), April 22, 2002.


I use a veterinary scalpel for the cuts where sharpness is important. These come in a variety of blade styles and are available at most feed stores. I then use a butcher knife for the tough cuts like legs, feet, necks, etc.

Not really related to sharpening knives, but I struggled with keeping knives sharp when I tried using one knife.

-- dave (d@d.net), April 22, 2002.


Check out a Lansky sharpening kit . Easy to use and the guide holds the stone at the same angle. Works GREAT. MB

-- Mike (mburley99@yahoo.com), April 22, 2002.

I take my knives to the local sharpening guy and pay $3 a knife, then use my steel at home to his edge honed.

-- Jay Blair in N. AL (jayblair678@yahoo.com), April 23, 2002.

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