Correct Pressure Settings - Switch and Pressure Tank

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I've read a number of enteries but can't find all the answers. Here is the problem: I know may pressure tank requires bleeding or emptying, I think I can figure that part out. When I get it all back to gether I'm not sure if my min /max switch is set at the pressure and what do I set the pressure tank at .. a) what is the normal setting b)or is it based on the switch settings, 2 or 3 lbs under or over those settings. Plus how much water do I put in the tank to start with, just over the inlet pipe or higher ? Never don't this before, don't want to cause more problems than I have now. The pressure tank is the old Galv. style, water coming from a 2600 Gal cistern tank, drawn with a 1 1/4 pipe by 1/2 hp pump. Piping in the house is mostly gray or white plastic with the pressure retainer clips. Therefore I don't want to go to high with the pressure since I don't know what pressure this pipe or more so the clip retainers can hold.

Hold help would be great. Thanks Carl

-- Carl Phin (caphin@hortoncbi.com), March 04, 2002

Answers

My tanks have a tire valve on them. I turn off the power, open a faucet, let the water come out for a while. Then I slowly air up the tank with my airtank. Do so slowly, so as not to build up too much pressure, let the water bleed out the faucet while you do this.

There would be no reason to mess with the pressure switch in any way, unless you feel it isn't working right?

I guess I put in a bunch of air. Can't really get too much, if you do it will bleed out with the water - this can make a little rusty water for a minute, but no big deal. Close the faucet, turn on the power, & let the pressue come back up. Bleed the faucet again so any air/ rust flushes out, and good to go for 6-12 months....

--->Paul

-- paul (ramblerplm@hotmail.com), March 04, 2002.


The pressure switches I've seen are typically preset at either 20psi cut-in and 40 psi cut-out or ten pounds higher for each setting. If it was acting OK before the trouble then it should be OK. If its a new switch chances are it'll be OK too. Some pressure switches have only one adjustment screw so the differential is preset. You adjust it for the cut out pressure if memory serves.

Once the tank is thoroughly drained, assuming you have a air cushion type tank as opposed to a bladder tank, fill the tank with 20-25psi of air pressure, then start the pump. The tank will fill half way with water, the rest of the capacity will be the air pressure.

-- john (natlivent@pcpros.net), March 05, 2002.


I have been on well water for many years. Here in texas the well is set quite a distance from the house and I dont like the low pressure that results. From the day the well was put in I turned the cut off pressure to 60psi and the cut in to 40psi. We have had no problem with our pump motor at all. As a side note I always over size our well pump..ours is a 1 HP on a shallow well, less than 100 feet.

God Bless.

-- Charles Steen (Xbeeman412@aol.com), March 05, 2002.


Carl--you always set your air pressure in the tank 2 lbs less than your low setting on the pressure switch--if the pressure switch is 20-40 put 18 ibs of air in tank--30-50 would be 28 lbs-this is for gal tank only bladder tanks are preset-and because of the bladder they wont get water loged unless the bladder gets a leak

-- Ken (kandswhitaker@carrinter.net), April 08, 2002.

i hate my pump. i am too stuborn and/or poor to replace it. it it will not keep the pressure up so i continually unplug it and let it cool. so much for self suffiency. laura

-- LAURA CARTER (CARTERLL@WORLDNET.ATT.NET), May 02, 2002.


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