I am interested in making my own tool handles I need some advice on seasoning, types of wood that are acceptable, etc. I am tired of paying 8 bucks or so for cheap axe handles that last a week or so- this year alone, I have had to replace like 20 handles keeping me and my woodcutting crew supplied. We had 4 go in one day, and this is not because (generally) someone abuses the tools, its just tremendous strain on an axe handle to spit 10 plus cords weekly. I have considered going to fiberglass, as I do have a axe with a fibergalss handle that has survived better than the wooden ones, but I honestly HATE the feel of it- it doesnt seem to punch as hard. Also, will a manual powered lathe or the like be in order for turning them? Could welded steel handles be another option?

-- Kevin in NC (Vantravlrs@aol.com), January 31, 2002

Answers

hydraulic logsplitter ; ) Doubt you'd fare much better making your own out of hickcory. It'd take more than a lathe too and would seem time consuming to carve out handles. I'd go with fiberglass. Is the fiberglass handled axe you have the same weight head as the others? I don't like those skinny yellow fiberglass handles but there's another brand that's great. I have one on a 20lb sledge and a replacement that should still have the papers. I'll look tomorrow and see if I can locate the maker. When I was in the tent biz we used alot of 16 and 20lb sledges. Put up tents up to 60'x180' so there were lots of 42" stakes to pound, many times through blacktop. Wood handles never lasted long. Those fiberglass core/polypro sheathed orange handles were impossible to break, even when the neck had been beat up by misses. They were regular size handles, not skinny like most fiberglass handles. I think the company guaranteed them unbreakable.

I haven't seen them for axes but there's also a sledge handle called a wire neck. It's half wood with about 4 inches of 1½" diameter steel cable at the neck welded to the head and a length of pipe that is riveted to the wood handle. The cable had enough unnoticable flex to it to absorb shock. They were also unbreakable.

-- Dave (something@somewhere.com), January 31, 2002.

"Ten plus cords weekly", that sounds very commercial; have you considered commercial equipment? Hydraulic log splitters might be the answer, gas or electric powered, this is 2002. The fiberglass handle absorbes some of the shock, thats why they last longer and feel different. A lathe that can cut shapes other than round would be a major investment. Panagraph lathes started at $26k the last time I looked.

-- mitch hearn (moopups@citlink.net), January 31, 2002.

axe and maul handles and such,, hickory,, cut and carve while green,, and let dry,,once dried hickory is harder as oak

-- Stan (sopal@net-port.com), January 31, 2002.

I understand that wrapping the wood handle with fine wire just below where the handle inserts in the steel head (poll?) will extend your wooden axe handle immensely. Copper works pretty well; if you are cheap, old electrical cord wire, after being stripped out of its plastic sheath, would work too.

Couldn't tell you this works for a fact; I had already switched to fiberglass and have used the same axe for 18 years.

-- j.r. guerra in s. tx. (jrguerra@boultinghousesimpson.com), January 31, 2002.

oops. I guess my answer above should say 'extend the LIFE of the wooden ax handle'. . . I need a spellchecker desperately.

-- j.r. guerra in s. tx. (jrguerra@boultinghousesimpson.com), January 31, 2002.

Thanks to all who answered so far- the fiberglassed spitting axe is heavier than the one I prefer (8 lbs to my 6) and does have a different shaped head, but I just feel "disconected" when I use it. My buddy (who is 120 lbs heavier then my 135 when soaking wet) likes the 8 lber with the fiberglass, partially because he isnt as accurate and the fibergalss one doesnt send that "i missed the log, and man am I sorry" jolt up his arms and because it hits harder. I have been offered (and declined) the use of a log spitter. I am TRYING to keep the wintertime business of selling firewood as low budget' impact as possible- a log splitter is : polluting to the environment (and so is the chain saw, but I cant chop 5 foot diameter logs up with an axe), its costly to operate, it is something else to look after and break down... after weighing the options, the maul and axe are it. I did go to Lowes to see what they had as far as handles went and everything is pricy- 10 bucks for wooden ones, 20 plus for fiberglass ones. Anyways, I am not looking to buy a full power lathe, was wondering if one like the one on "the woodrights shop" PBS might work, if it was geared specifically to handle making. And besides, this, as with many other of my enterprises, might have the potential to: teach me something new, have a potentail market when fossil fuels run dry, and save me a couple hundred bucks each year. Ok, the fiberglass handles ARE worth considering, but Ive been splitting wood with wooden handled axes since I was knee high (I dont want to convert, but you all might just have talked me into it). I am going to go wrap the top of my axe with wire and see what happens. I tryed electric tape once before, but every time it got cold, the tape would get brittle and chunk off. And duct tape frays fast. Maybe the copper wire will work, I dont know why I dont think of these things!

-- Kevin in NC (Vantravlrs@aol.com), January 31, 2002.

I didn't get around to digging out the paper for those handles but will try tomorrow. I know what you mean by the 'disconnected' feeling from fiberglass handles. That's why I recommended these others because they feel more like like wood. They have a fiberglass core but it's wrapped with graphite or something and then molded polypro around that.

Wirewrapping won't do much in heavy use. The major stress point is usually right where the neck goes into the head so any reinforcement needs to be connected to the head also.

-- Dave (something@somewhere.com), February 01, 2002.

here's a pic of that Wireneck handle. They cost an outrageous amount but I thought maybe this could give you an idea. I've used one before on a 20lb sledge. It does not bend or flex at all where the cable is like it appears it would.

-- Dave (something@somewhere.com), February 01, 2002.

well, I finally dug up the handle I mentioned before. I can be a big procrastinator sometimes ; )

They came from a company called Tamco, the handles are called Saf-T-Mate. The handles come with 2-part epoxy to set them in the head, which I mixed with bb shot as recommended by the company. Never had any of their sledge handles come loose, even after 2 years use in all kinds of weather. Found their website here; http://www.tamcotools.com

-- Dave (something@somewhere.com), February 11, 2002.