Barn/Shed again

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Another question fellas...

The floor went on R.R. ties...not exactly what was suggested but I did get it off the ground. Beginning the walls now. I'm going to try 24" centers for the trusses and the studs in the walls....but if I don't then do the studs and the trusses have to line up for support or can they be offset? Thanks again. Mike

P.S. for those of you not sure what I'm talking about, I have an earlier post 2 questions earlier on the "construction" posting.

-- Mike in W. PA (smfine@yahoo.com), August 09, 2001

Answers

if you dont line them up,, what are you going to put the trusses on? The should be lined up for support,, ,or you could go with a gable roof,, but for a shed,, that might be a little too much

-- stan (sopal@net-port.com), August 09, 2001.

Where in Western Pa are you. I'm from a small town called Summerville. Summerville is a 30 minute drive from Punxsutawney (you know, the Great Ground Hog that says if it's more winter for another 6 weeks!) Good luck on your building project.

-- Michael W. Smith in North-West Pennsylvania (kirklbb@penn.com), August 09, 2001.

Mike: I do understand your question and its a good one. UBC framing standard is for a doubled ceiling plate. Frame your wall on the floor by laying a 2x4 sole plate and a 2x4 ceiling plate. Mark the plates for the stud positions and nail through the plates into the ends of the studs. Raise the wall, and secure to the floor. When all the walls are raised then add the second 2x4 on top the walls so that they overlap the joints of the first 2x4. This ties everything together. Your rafters do not have to line up over the studs since a doubled 2x4 can easily carry the weight over a 24" span, especially when the wall is sheeted on one side with plywood or T-1-11.

-- Skip in Western WA (sundaycreek@gnrac.net), August 09, 2001.

Man you guys are quick! I feel lik I got a direct line to professional help! Thanks again.

Michael, I'm in Belle Vernon, PA. SW of Greensburg. Good hunting in your part of the woods. I've spent A LOT of time in the Clarion, Leeper, Brookville areas. Worked there a while. Small world huh?

-- Mike in W. PA (smfine@yahoo.com), August 09, 2001.


Sure is a small world. Next time your up in the area let me know! Good hunting? Yes. Too many deer live on our 140 acre farm!

-- Michael W. Smith in North-West Pennsylvania (kirklbb@penn.com), August 09, 2001.


Skip, I have a gambrel roof built by Amish (and isn't THAT another conversation LOL!). Short story, the guy did very little of what I asked him to do. It was supposed to be on a double top plate. It is a pole framed building. The header is a single 2x12 bolted to the exterior of the building and that wasn't done real well either, the guy who put that up recessed the bolt heads (so siding would go over them) so the header is really only held on by 3 bolts through about an inch of wood (instead of the whole 1.5" thickness).

To alleviate this some what I put additional 2x8 along the inside of the posts so the whole weight of the floor joists is not resting on the 2x12 headers. But, the roof is - and the guy (@*#$&@$) put a SINGLE top plate along there. Hey, he was the (Amish) Man and I was the (mere English) Woman, so he obviously knew better and didn't have to actually do the work he agreed to.

So what, if anything, could/should be done about this now that its too late to do it right in the first place? Or do I just have to hope I'm not actually in the building when it finally all falls down? :Þ

-- Sojourner (notime4@summer.spam), August 09, 2001.


Sojourner, did you already pay this unqualified yahoo?

-- Gary in Indiana (gk6854@aol.com), August 10, 2001.

Waaaahooo! I just might do that Michael. Love to hunt new places. 140 acre farm and "too many deer"....sure got my attention! Thanks, Mike

-- Mike in W. PA (smfine@yahoo.com), August 10, 2001.

Yes, and I blame myself in part as well for not getting it in writing (I'm talking the Amish guy who put up the roof). There was supposed to be 8' of head room on the second floor (so I could put up good ceiling fans) and there is only a bit over 6'. It was supposed to be all 2x6 and he built the dormer out of 2x4s. He complained because I had him use 5/8" plywood instead of 1/2", and didn't want to use the roofing felt (and in fact left it off on one section anyway, until I came home and caught him at it). He sized the dormer window incorrectly, and the window was right there to be measured. I know for a fact that at one point we measured it. He didn't flash the dormer, so it leaks, and I have to get somebody out here to fix that. I could do it right the first time now, I know that much, but I can't fix it. He nailed T1-11 siding up to the dormer front and cut it out from behind, I'm guessing with a reciprocating saw, which naturally splintered the face of the plywood and ruined it. The roof sags because the rafters where the dormer is are not level with the rest of the rafters. Oh yeah, and he kept my book that had the original plans in it, I haven't been able to get it back. Etc. etc. etc. ...

Before this guy, I too sang the praises of the Amish. That's why I hired Amish to do my roof. This English, at least, learned better.

-- Sojourner (notime4@summer.spam), August 11, 2001.


Mike, the header may be able to carry the weight of the trusses if you offest them from the studs, but your roof will have greater strength if you line them up. It is simple physics.

-- daffodyllady (daffodyllady@yahoo.com), August 11, 2001.


Thank you Daffodyllady for the contribution and for stating the obvious but it still didn't answer the question...WILL it have the strength to be offset? I'll go with Skip's expert advice and double the top plate after it's raised.

-- Mike (smfine@yahoo.com), August 12, 2001.

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