Cordwood (Stackwood)Masonry Homes

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Ann and I are researching building a Cordwood home. Has any one seen both of Rob Roys videos ( Cordwood Homes and Cordwood techniques)? If so do you think one or the other is the one to buy, or should I get them both? We WILL be buying the complete book of Cordwood Masonry Housebuilding the Earthwood Method as well if that helps any.

Thanks

Rick and Ann

-- rick K (rick_122@hotmail.com), August 05, 2001

Answers

Also any tips you have would be appreciated.

-- rick K (rick_122@hotmail.com), August 05, 2001.

Just one suggestion: try to get some data on R value for various woods, if you have a choice in which type of wood you are going to use. I think you'll find that very low density woods such as incense cedar are better insulators than dense woods such as oak, for instance.

JOJ

-- jumpoff joe (jumpoff@echoweb.net), August 05, 2001.


Hi Rick & Ann,

I would definately recommend the book. After reading it, you may find that you have enough of an understanding to go ahead and try a test panel. Cordwood is the kind of thing that lends itself to a learn by doing approach. I haven't seen the videos but depending on your background/experience, you might appreciate having a visual example. Joe is right about the different woods. Because of the density of the grain, the hardwoods act as a conduit for the cold air and are not as efficient as the softwoods. A word of caution on the red cedar. There is at least one case of a house built of red cedar that was uninhabitable because the aromatic oils in the wood were too overpowering. Northern white cedar is an excellent choice. The pines (red and white) are not bad either. Rob Roy has a good chart in his book that rates all the different woods according to things like their rot resistance, tendency toward shrinkage, insulation value etc... DH and I just closed on our land (YES!!!)and are now embarking on the adventure of building our dream place. We've been thinking about cordwood for years. DH has a background in masonry/tuckpointing and he attended one of Rob Roys workshops a couple of years ago. Now we'll finally get to put all the knowledge into action! The only drawback for us is the time that cordwood takes. We have been researching building vertically with logs as a quicker (yet still manageable) way to build and have thought perhaps a combination of the two would work (end walls in vertical log with the rest post & beam cordwood?) Lots of decisions to make! Best wishes to you in your research and building efforts....

-- Amy (gshep@aeroinc.net), August 06, 2001.


Try going to Day Creek .com They have a journal and a forum on cordwood masonry. It has lots of information. Mike in WNY

-- Mike (jake@2ki.net), August 06, 2001.

Amy, thanks; you just gave me a great idea! I've been thinking about building one of these buildings for years, and very well may do so, once I've finished my honeydo list, if I live that long. (I haven't built a complete house for almost three years now)

How about putting peeled logs INSIDE the cordwood walls both vertically, every four feet or so, and also at a more or less 45 degree angle at corners? Then just work the horizantal cordwood around these poles, notching when/if necessary. If the poles were anchored securely to the top plate and foundation, you'd end up with phenomenal strength, with little extra work or materials.

Best of luck to you folks!

JOJ

-- jumpoff joe (jumpoff@ecoweb.net), August 06, 2001.



I want to try one of these for a chicken house or a gardening shed. Then if I can handle it, somthing bigger like a house. I love the look of them.

-- Teresa (c3ranch@socket.net), August 06, 2001.

We are looking at the possibility of aquiring 50 acres, some of which is in secluded forest. I hope to put up 2 or 3 cordwood cabins back in there to rent out as vacation getaways. Of course, we would have to be careful who we allow on our place, but if we stick to word of mouth recommendation, and if we charge enough, it should weed out the no-good trashers. Dont you think a 15'x15' cabin close to a 1-acre fishing pond would be worth $200 a week to someone? 3 of these would bring in a pretty decent second income. and they would be suitable for winter getaways, too, if we would put woodstoves in them.

-- daffodyllady (daffodyllady@yahoo.com), August 06, 2001.

RICK AND ANN AND OTHERS: I HAVE A CORDWOOD BOARD THAT HAS ALMOST 200 MEMBERS.I MODERATE THE BOARD WITH OVER 27 YEARS EXPERIENCE WITH CORDWOOD.[36 YEARS IF YOU COUNT MY CONVENTIONAL LOG HOUSE EXPERIENCE.] THE BOARD CAN BE FOUND AT THE FOLLOWING URL. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cordwood

THERE IS A NEWBEE PAGE LISTED UNDER MY BOOKMARKS THAT GIVES YOU THE BASICS OF CORDWOOD.AFTER READING IT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO JUDGE AN EXPERTS BUILDING AND FIND FLAWS IF ANY ARE TO BE FOUND.THERE IS A LOT OF MISINFORMATION IN CORDWOOD BOOKS.

[1]WOODS RESISTANCE TO DECAY (a)THIS VARIES BY LOCATION[CEDAR CAN ROT ON THE GROUND IN SOUTHERN STATES IN 6-12 MONTHS]THERE ARE WAYS TO PROTECT THE WOOD AS IT LAYS THERE SEASONING. (b)THE WOODS HEARTWOOD MIGHT BE RESISTANT TO ROT.BUT IN SMALLER LOGS USED IN CORDWOOD THEY CONSIST MAINLY OF SAPWOOD.WHICH IS NOT RESISTANT TO ROT.[I RECOMMEND TREATING ALL WOOD WITH A BORATE TREATMENT]

[2]THE BOOKS SAY TO AIR DRY YOUR LOGS TO 10% MOISTURE CONTENT. (a)THIS CAN ONLY BE ACHIEVED IN ONLY ABOUT 10 LOCATIONS IN NORTH AMERICA.THE 10% MOISTURE LEVEL IS A MYTH EVERY WHERE ELSE. (b)I HAVE THE EQUILIBRIUM MOISTURE CONTENT FOR MOST OF THE WORLD. THESE FIGURES WILL TELL YOU WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FOR AIR DRIED LOGS. (c)THERE ARE IN FACT AREAS OF NORTH AMERICA WHERE CORDWOOD AND STRAW BALE WOULDN`T WORK.THE MOISTURE LEVEL OF AIR DRIED LOGS EXCEED 19%. THIS IS THE LEVEL WHERE LOGS START TO ROT.

[3]SOME BOOKS SAY TO SEASON YOUR LOGS 6 MONTHS (a)LOGS SHOULD SEASON ABOUT 2-3 YEARS TO REACH THEIR EQUILIBRIUM MOISTURE CONTENT.

[4]THE BOOKS DON`T DISCUSS THE AIR AND WATER PENETRATION OF THE WALLS (a)ALL THIS CAN BE CORRECTED IF YOU KNOW THAT IT EXISTS. (b)THEY DON`T BRING UP THE NEGATIVE PRESSURE SITUATION EITHER.WHEN YOU HAVE A STRONG DRIVING RAIN STORM OUTSIDE YOUR CORDWOOD HOME.IT CREATES A NEGATIVE PRESSURE INSIDE THE HOUSE.THIS NEGATIVE PRESSURE SUCKS WATER INTO THE CAVITY DRAWING IT THROUGH THE WALL LIKE A STRAW.

[5]I WAS BOUNCED OFF ANOTHER BOARD BECAUSE OF A TOXIC WASTE WARNING. (a) I PLAN ON USING STYROFOAM BEADS[FREE FLOWING IN WALL,NOT AFFECTED BY MOISTURE,HIGHER R-VALUE]THE MODERATOR OF THE BOARD JUMPED ON MY IDEA TO USE STYROFOAM...SAYING HIS BORAD ONLY RECOMMENDS GREEN/ENVIROMENTALLY FRIENDLY PRODUCTS.

I SAID WELL WHAT ABOUT ONE EXPERTS RECOMMENDATION ABOUT BLUESTONE/COPPER SULPHATE.ITS SO TOXIC THAT YOUR LIVER WOULD BE GONE IN A FEW YEARS.ITS UNSAFE TO TOUCH. ANOTHER{AUTHOR] USED POWER POLES.THEY ARE CONTAMINATED WITH CREOSOTE AND PENTA[PCB`S].ITS POSSABLE THAT SUCH A STRUCTURE COULD BE CONDEMNED. THE MODERATOR USED PAPERCRETE IN THE FIRST HOUSE[ HE IS STILL IN THE PROCESS OF BUILDING ].PAPERCRETE CONTAINS DIOXINS.

APPARENTLY,THEY ARE OK ON THAT BOARD BECAUSE MY POST WAS REMOVED AS I WAS.I FIND IT IRRESPONSABLE THAT SOMEONE WOULD NOT POST MY WARNING.MY CONCERNS ARE FOR NEWBEES WHO SEE AN EXPERT RECOMMENDING SOMETHING AND THEM NOT QUESTIONING IT...BLINDLY FOLLOWING THEIR LEED.I RECOMMEND THAT YOU QUESTION EVERY THING YOU READ OR HEAR ABOUT CORDWOOD.AS FOR MY STYROFOAM THERE ARE NO WARNINGS ON STYROFOAM PLATES AND CUPS.AND THEY ARE DESIGNED TO BE BIODEGRADEABLE.SO THAT MUST MAKE THEM ENVIROMENTALLY FRIENDLY.PLUS ANY OUT GASING WOULD HAVE TO PENETRATE MY MASONRY WALL.PLUS MY AIR EXCHANGER WOULD ELIMINATE ANY BUILD UP IF IT GOT THROUGH.

[6]THE BOOKS DON`T ALL GET INTO PROPER LOG SELECTION,SEASONING PRACTICES OR FELLING PRACTICES. (a)HOW YOU SEASON YOUR LOGS,WHAT TYPE YOU SELECT,WHEN IT WAS CUT,SIZE OF LOGS USED...ALL PLAY A PART IN SHRINKAGE/AIR PENETRATION

[7]SOME RECOMMEND THE USE OF HARDWOODS (a)THE USE OF HARDWOODS HAS CAUSED WALLS TO BOW/BLOW OUT FROM THE LOGS SWELLING. (b)PULLED METAL ANCHORS OUT OF THE FOUNDATION. (c)SINCE THEY ARE DENSER THAN SOFTWOODS ..THEY HAVE LESS INSULATION VALUE.THE RISK OF THEM SWELLING OVER WEIGHS ANY OTHER REASON TO USE THEM (d)THEIR SWELLING WOULD CRACK YOUR MORTAR AND WEAKEN THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRATY OF THE WALL.

[8]THERE ARE A LOT OF MORTAR MIXES FOR CORDWOOD (a)BE WARRY...SOME ARE LOAD BEARING OTHERS ARE NON-LOAD BEARING. SO MAKE SURE YOURS FITS THE TYPE OF WALL YOU ARE BUILDING. (b)I ALWAYS RECOMMEND PEOPLE FIND OUT WHAT MORTAR WORKS BEST IN THEIR AREA.REMEMBER,A MIX USED IN FLORIDA MIGHT NOT HOLD UP IN AN AREA OF HEAVY FROST.

[9]JUST SO YOU KNOW AND I`VE NEVER SEEN IT MENTIONED IN A CORDWOOD BOOK. (a)LOGS BEING ORGANIC NEVER COMPLETELY SEASON.THE MOISTURE LEVEL IN A LOG WALL WOULD CHANGE BY THE SEASON.SHRINK IN DRY SEASONS...SWELL IN THE WET SEASONS.THIS GOES ON FOREVER. (b)EVEN AFTER AIR DRYING YOUR LOGS.THEY WILL CONTINUE TO SEASON AS YOU HEAT THE HOUSE.THIS WILL GO ON FOR UP TO EIGHT YEARS.THIS SEASONING WOULD BE MINIMAL IF THEY WERE SEASONED AND CUT RIGHT.

[10]DROP BY MY BOARD TO SEE MORE...

NOW,I HOPE I DIDN`T SCARE ANYONE AWAY FROM CORDWOOD.CORDWOOD IS ALMOST FOOL PROOF AND HAS ALL KINDS OF FAIL SAFES BUILT IN TO IT. IT IS ONLY AFTER YOU RECOGNIZE THE INHERENT FAULTS OF A SYSTEM.THAT YOU CAN MAKE PREVENTATIVE STEPS TO AVOID THEM.

CORDially YOURS CORDWOODGUY



-- CORDWOODGUY (cordwoodguy@n2teaching.com), August 09, 2001.


Hey Cordwood guy, you've been very helpful in the past, with posts on various sites I've visited.

I unfortunately have had a lot of trouble with yahoo groups. I seem to spend a lot of time screwing around trying to get , and get frustrated and go somewhere else.

Keep up the good work, though. Have you considered going to a greenspun format?

JOJ

-- jumpoff joe (jumpoff@ecoweb.net), August 09, 2001.


JUMPOFFJOE....THE EASYEST WAY TO GET INTO MY BOARD.IS TO SET UP A YAHOO E-MAIL ADDRESS.I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN. THERE IS ONE BOARD I`M A MEMBER OF AND I CAN`T GET IN.BUT I GET THE E-MAILS THAT THEY POST.

CORDially YOURS CORDWOODGUY PS:THANKS FOR THE COMPLEMENT.

-- cordwoodguy (cordwoodguy@n2teaching.com), August 13, 2001.



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