How many days does it take to climb the Matterhorn. I have heard it takes at least 2 days, but I'm not positive. Also, how difficult is the climb. Does it require much technical climbing?

-- Mitch (mitchm@microlog.com), March 25, 2000

Answers

Mitch, I4ve done the Hvrnli few years ago solo. I started from Zermatt 11.00 am and reach the Solvay hut (4003 m) at 8.00 pm. Sleeping in front of the hut (this is normally not allowed, but many poeple do it, to avoid the Hvrnli hut). Next day start at 5.00 am, going to summit and back to Zermatt. The regular way is at the afternoon to the Hvrnli hut and next day at 2-3.00 am start to the summit (5-6 hours) and going back to Zermatt. In the main saison there are many guides who are not "courteous" to people without guides. It requires not much technical climbing, many 1-2 UIAA, two passages 3-. The "difficult" (4+) passages at the upper part above the shoulder are protected with fixed ropes. The last passages are steep snow. The main problem when you start in the dark is to find the way. If you don`t find the easiest way it is possible to find passages more difficult to climb.

Have fun, Olaf

-- olaf reeder (olaf.reeder@deu.xerox.com), March 28, 2000.