Ok now I have an idea what kind of chain saw to get ,thanks to all of your responses. For now I need to get a good chain saw sharpener. I usely just use a file in the field but I would like something better. Maybe motorized? Any one have any suggestion

-- wittey (wittey@aol.com), December 11, 1999

Answers

My personal opinion is buy 4 or 5 files. They don't use electricity or gasoline, they are quiet, they are cheap,and best of all they don't have an owners manual!

-- Jason Youngblood (youngblood1@mindspring.com), December 11, 1999.

Personally I use a Dremel Moto-tool. I use a variable speed model with a chain saw grinding stone in it. I just hand hold to the correct angles as best I can, which of course is not as it should be. By this time Dremel may even make a filing guide, but I just don't know. I use a 110 volt model, but they do make 12 volt ones as well. I would suggest that you put out the extra money and get a ball-bearing model, as you will find so many uses for these things that you will wear out a bronze bearing one quickly.

-- greenbeanman (greenbeanman@ourtownusa.net), December 13, 1999.

As a long time CS user I would suggest a handfile of the proper size for your chain, and instructions on how to use it. The automated sharpeners are quick and work well HOWEVER they eat a chain very fast and severely shorten its useful life. A hand file gives the sharpest and best wearing edge and with prudent use the chain wont need to be sharpened very often. Hope this helps

-- Buzz Shinn (shinnbuzz@worldnet.att.net), December 16, 1999.

From another long time chain saw user (24 years), you are right on target, Buzz.

-- jumpoff joe (jumpoff@echoweb.net), January 25, 2000.

I do all my own saw maintenance and sharpening. For sharpening I use a small airpowered die grinder and diamond sharpening bits in the correct size. Using diamond bits also allows me to sharpen carbide chains, of which, I have several. You must also remember to lower the depth guages as you grind the cutters down. I will not take my chains to a saw shop. They usually only cut well for about 15 minutes after a sawshop sharpening, where I get several hours. I don't use a guide or jig, just eyeball the angles and try to be consistent.

-- bud goding (bgoding@vmth.ucdavis.ed), December 21, 2000.