[ Post New Message | Post Reply to this One | Send Private Email to Cathy | Help ]

Out and about

from Cathy (cathyvpreece@aol.com)

Observer : Gay London

Out and about

London is the gay capital of Europe, and a new Time Out gay and lesbian guide to the city tells you all the places it's in to be out. We pick some of the highlights

Sunday January 16, 2005

Even without a guidebook at their disposal, most gay visitors to London would soon find their way to the nearest gay bar. Call it gaydar if you must, but would those same visitors be as quick to locate the best venues for experimental gay theatre, or the nearest place for a night of camp comedy? Would they stumble across the gay-friendliest hotels and restaurants, and would they really make the most of all that gay London has to offer - or simply go on a gay pub crawl?

Over the past decade, the scene in London has grown at such a rate that it has become the gay capital of Europe, if not the world. For more than 20 years Time Out magazine has been providing London's gay and lesbian community with a weekly guide to what's on, and now it has decided to launch a dedicated guide.

The Time Out Gay & Lesbian London guide isn't simply a guide to those parts of London which proudly (and loudly) proclaim themselves as gay. Rather it's a guide to the entire city, viewed from a gay perspective. Here's a taster.

Where to stay

Rates are for a double room

For hanky panky

The Philbeach
http://www.philbeachhotel.freeserve.co.uk/
30-31 Philbeach Gardens SW5 (020 7373 1244)
From £63.

Long before Soho became So-Homo, Earl's Court was the gay capital of London. And if the walls could talk at the Philbeach, London's most in-your-face gay hotel, they'd have some saucy tales to tell. It's typically English B&B material, if a bit grubby. But people don't come here for the chintz. For the Philbeach has gained a reputation as a cruisy hotel: if you don't enjoy being propositioned in the bathroom, request a room with en suite facilities.

For Soho action

Clone Zone
http://www.clonezone.co.uk/
64 Old Compton Street W1 (020 7287 3530)
From £95

You've bought the clothes, the porn and the sex toys: now put them to good use by renting a crash pad right above the famous Soho shop. For a scene queen holiday, you don't get closer to the action than this: a couple of rooms even have a view of Old Compton Street. Bedrooms have faux-wooden floors and contemporary decor, plus cable TV, hi-fi, fridges, and wireless internet access.

For swimming with an MP

Dolphin Square Hotel
http://www.dolphinsquarehotel.co.uk/
Dolphin Square, Chichester Street SW1 (020 7798 8890)
From £260.

Dolphin Square is a London legend. This massive 1930s mansion block survived bombing during the war. Its posh flats are home to politicians, barristers and civil servants. And one wing of the building is devoted to an attractive hotel. Allium, the smart restaurant run by former Savoy chef Anton Edelmann, is complemented by a glam period cocktail bar; both overlook the indoor swimming pool.

For flashy fashionistas

The Baglioni
http://www.baglionihotellondon.com/

60 Hyde Park Gate SW7 (020 7368 5700)
From £300.

Attention, fashionistas. The Baglioni, part of an exclusive Italian group, has made a flamboyant foray into London. In a bold move, it has nixed the tired minimalist aesthetic and upped the glam. The fantastic lobby bar is part baroque, part Donatella Versace: spidery black chandeliers, burnished gold ceilings and gigantic vases filled with roses. The chic bedrooms are more masculine: dark wood floors, black lacquered tables and taupe walls. Ostentatious, yes. And about time too: when you're spending this kind of money, you want a good show.

For kitsch sake

Pavilion
http://www.pavilionhoteluk.com/
34-36 Sussex Gardens W2 (020 7262 0905)
From £85

In a row of dowdy hotels, the Pavilion is a shining star. Or more like a disco ball. When it comes to decor, this hilariously kitsch B&B has tongue firmly planted in cheek. The themed rooms are a riot: Casablanca Nights is a Moorish fantasy complete with Moroccan lanterns; the Highland Fling is a tartan theme park, with plaid bedspreads and stag antlers. Rock stars love the place: a favourite shag pad is Honky Tonk Afro, with its mirror ball, fuzzy dice and heart-shaped mirrored headboards.

Where to eat

For people watching

Yauatcha
15 Broadwick Street W1 (020 7494 8888)
Mains £3.50-£12

Costing £4.2 million, deeply chic Yauatcha is the latest venture from restaurateur Alan Yau. Taking up residence in the basement of Richard Rogers's new Ingeni building, it serves exquisite food. Oh, and there's a kick-ass tearoom on the ground floor.

For brunch

Christopher's
http://www.christophersgrill.com/
18 Wellington Street WC2 (020 7240 4222)
Mains £12-£28

This remains one of London's best restaurants for modern American cuisine, with a seasonally changing menu of delights. The decor of the first-floor restaurant is cool and contemporary, with cream and chocolate tones, and the ground-floor bar is excellent for cocktails.

For a sense of occasion

Zuma
http://www.zumarestaurant.com/
5 Raphael Street SW7 (020 7584 1010)
Mains £3.50-£28.50

Has Zuma taken over from Nobu as the capital's most glamorous dining spot? Possibly, if the wait (several weeks for dinner when we tried) for a reservation is anything to go by. Not to mention the strict two-hour sittings. Still, the food remains compellingly good, helped by service that is well informed and friendly.

Branch: Roka, 37 Charlotte Street W1 (020 7580 6464).

For old times' sake

First Out
http://www.firstoutcafebar.com/
52 St Giles High Street WC2 (020 7240 8042)
Mains £4.95-£5.95

London's first lesbian and gay cafe-bar is still going strong. A favoured West End meeting place for yonks: it used to be the only place to get a copy of the Pink Paper in daylight hours without having to get a dodgy massage as well. With soup and bread at £3.50, a lot of locals treat the place like a canteen. Despite the best efforts of the management to give First Out a frequent facelift, it's a bit like M&S knickers: not the trendiest, but affordable, comfortable and you know what you're going to get.

All night long

Balans
http://www.balans.co.uk/
60 Old Compton Street W1 (020 7439 2183)
Mains £9-£14

This stalwart is the only 24-hour gay venue in London that isn't a sauna. Food and service aren't always up to scratch, but it's a popular haunt and mostly delivers. The key to Balans's success is the diversity of the menu: it covers everything from steak and chips to generous salads, grilled fish to green curry.

Branches: 239 Old Brompton Road SW5 (7244 8838); 187 Kensington High Street W8 (7376 0115); Balans Cafe (24 hrs), 34 Old Compton Street W1 (7439 3309).

Where to party

In the thick of things

Compton's of Soho
http://www.comptons-of-soho.co.uk/
51-53 Old Compton Street, W1 (020 7479 7961)

A Soho institution, Compton's is popular with crowds of beer-drinking, blokey gay men in bomber jackets. The cruisey atmosphere extends to both floors. Shaved heads optional.

For warm evenings

The Yard
http://www.yardbar.co.uk/
57 Rupert Street W1 (020 7437 2652)

A gay men's bar with a courtyard, loft bar and food. It's very popular during the summer, when the courtyard comes into its own. The Yard attracts a slightly smarter, after-work crowd.

For members only

Shaun & Joe
http://www.shaunandjoe.com/
5 Goslett Yard WC2 (020 7734 9858)
Admission £10 to non-members after 10pm Fri, Sat (membership by invitation only)

A new members' bar and club from Shaun Given (ex-general manager of Shadow Lounge) and restaurateur Joseph McColgan. Similar in feel to the Shadow Lounge, Shaun & Joe has fabulous decor, great service, delicious cocktails and a superb food menu. Membership brings privileges, including free entry and the chance to jump the queue.

For glitz and glamour

Too 2 Much
http://www.too2much.com/
11-12 Walker's Court, off Brewer Street W1 (020 7437 4400)
Performances 7pm. Admission £7

A glitzy new lounge bar and club. The owners have spent millions refurbishing the old Revue Bar, a famous strip joint, and it shows. The entrance resembles the lobby to a grand hotel; old features like the banquettes and chandeliers have been lovingly restored.

For offbeat fun

Duckie
http://www.duckie.co.uk/
Royal Vauxhall Tavern, 373 Kennington Lane SE11 (020 7737 4043)
Admission £5

This legendary, offbeat club features 'post-gay vaudeville and post-punk pogoing'. Amy Lamé hosts; DJs the London Readers' Wifes play the best retro set in town.

Where to chill out

For doing as the Romans did

Chariots Shoreditch
http://www.gaysauna.co.uk/
1 Fairchild Street EC2 (020 7247 5333)
Admission £13; £11 concessions

London's biggest and busiest sauna is decked out like a Roman bath - and there's plenty of Roman-style debauchery. Search for your own gladiator in the swimming pool, two steam rooms, two saunas and Jacuzzi - and then tame him in a private cabin.

Branches: 292 Streatham High Road SW16 (8696 0929); 57 Cowcross Street EC1 (7251 5553); 574 Commercial Road E14 (7791 2808); 101 Lower Marsh SE1 (7401 8484).

For letting off steam

Sauna Bar
http://www.saunabar.com/
29 Endell Street WC2 (020 7836 2236)
Admission £13; £10 concessions

A comfortable bar, steam room, splash pool, showers and private rooms have all been crammed into this small, men-only sauna. There's also a 35-man Jacuzzi - the largest in the UK.

For working up a sweat

Oasis Sports Centre
http://www.camden.gov.uk/sport
32 Endell Street WC2 (020 7831 1804)
Non-members (gym) £5.90 each use. Induction fee £9.30. Admission pool only £3.20; £1.25 concessions

The Oasis, a gay mecca, is renowned for its palm-fringed sun terrace and outdoor heated swimming pool - a haven for sun-seekers and sturdy winter dippers alike. If you're less ballsy, try the adjacent indoor pool, which has swimming and aqua fitness classes.

For swimming in style

Tooting Bec Lido
Tooting Bec Common SW16 (020 8871 7198)
Closed September-April

On a sunny day, this south London lido evokes Miami Beach circa 1950, with its colourful Art Deco touches, sunbeds, palm trees and gaudy blue waters. It attracts a considerable gay constituency, though be warned: screaming kiddies are also out in full force.

For serious cruising

Hampstead Heath Ponds
http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/openspaces
NW5 (020 7485 4491)
Open May-September daily, 7am-7pm. Free

Surrounded by lush woodland, the secluded lakes are magical enclaves, the stuff of midsummer nights' dreams. The men's bathing pond is not exclusively gay but is very homoerotic: after all this is Hampstead Heath, the world's number one cruising ground. A sheltered concrete sundeck allows nude sunbathing and the changing rooms are full of smouldering glances. The ladies' bathing pond has a similarly sapphic appeal.

What to buy

Not just a book shop, also a haven for women, the Silver Moon Women's Bookshop (Third floor, Foyles, 113-119 Charing Cross Road WC2; 020 7437 5660) has the largest selection of lesbian titles of any bookshop in the country. For music, Blackmarket (25 D'Arblay Street W1; 020 7437 0478) is the focal point of the UK dance vinyl scene, with house imports the speciality.

But where London really excels is in fashion. The new Alexander McQueen http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/ store (4-5 Old Bond Street W1; 020 7355 0088) is a cross between a spaceship and a gallery. Ozwald Boateng http://www.ozwaldboateng.com/ (9 Vigo Street W1; 020 7437 0620) dresses Anthony Hopkins, Ray Winstone, Lennox Lewis and more with prices from around £900 for ready-to-wear. Paul Smith http://www.paulsmith.co.uk/ stores (40-44 Floral Street WC2; 020 7379 7133) have unpredictable but entertaining window displays, and similarly enjoyable clothes inside.

Coco de Mer http://www.coco-de-mer.co.uk/ (23 Monmouth Street WC2; 020 7836 8882) is the place for glamorous lesbians, with its sumptuous crimson interior, objet d'art dildos and peep-show changing rooms that allow your partner to 'spy' on you. One decadent lingerie shop. Myla http://www.myla.com/ (77 Lonsdale Road W11; 020 7221 9222) is best-known for its saucy lace-and-freshwater-pearl G-string, thanks to an episode of Sex and the City. Finally, Rio Beach (1A Earlham Street WC2; 020 7497 5259) has two floors of beachwear and swimwear with a brightly coloured ethos to live up to its Brazilian name. Also famous for its clubbing gear.

What to do

For queens who love queens

Kensington Palace
http://www.hrp.org.uk/
W8 (020 7937 9561)
Admission (LP) £10.80; £7.20 5-15s; £8.20 concessions

Princess Diana's legions of gay fans are among the hordes of tourists who pay a pilgrimage to her former residence. And, like the People's Princess, Kensington is far more warm and intimate than other, more regal palaces. A series of Diana's dresses, including the blue silk number in which she danced with John Travolta at the White House, are permanently displayed.

For edgy art

Whitechapel Art Gallery
http://www.whitechapel.org/
80-82 Whitechapel High Street E1 (020 7522 7888)
Admission free; one paying exhibition a year

An unexpected cultural treat in this bustling commercial area, Whitechapel Art Gallery has been exposing Eastenders to contemporary art for more than a century. The line-up this year includes amateur films by Polish factory workers, photographs by Richard Prince and a 'story of modern art' show with work by Manet, Bacon, Warhol and Cindy Sherman.

For design gurus

Design Museum
http://www.designmuseum.org/
28 Shad Thames SE1 (020 7403 6933)
Admission £6; £4 concessions

Formerly a warehouse, this 1930s-style building is now an acclaimed shrine to design. It's hard to ignore the shop's glossy design books and chic household accessories, but remember you're here for the exhibitions. On the first floor the Blueprint Café (a smart Modern British restaurant) has a balcony overlooking the Thames and Tower Bridge; the ground-floor café is run by the estimable Konditor & Cook.

For romantic views

Primrose Hill

NW1/NW3/NW8

To the north of Camden, with its gracious terraces, Primrose Hill is as pretty as the actors, pop stars and writers who live there. The main shopping street, Regent's Park Road, is a pleasant mix of cafes, quality gastropubs and restaurants, and smart shops.

For the fetish crowd

London Dungeon
http://www.thedungeons.com/
28-34 Tooley Street SE1 (020 7403 7221)
Admission £13.95

Warm up for a fetish club with a visit to the London Dungeon. Tucked away under the Victorian arches of London Bridge, this disturbing world of torture, death and disease attracts hordes of ghoulish visitors. Expect dry-ice fog, gravestones and hideously rotting corpses.

· The Time Out Gay & Lesbian London Guide published by Time Out is out now.

Guardian Unlimited © Guardian Newspapers Limited 2005

(posted 7012 days ago)

[ Previous | Next ]