Response to tri-x & hp5 in xtol

I think you should pick one developer and one film first of all. Tri-X is very much like HP5+. They are conventional film, push really well to 3200 and usually cheaper than tabular grain films. The one major difference is that HP5+ is the same emulsion in 35mm, 120 and 220. Tri-X has at least two different versions TX and TXP. Tri-X(TX) is the film loved by the photojournalists the world over. Pro Tri-X is a different film which has a different film curve and is only availible in 220 and Sheet Film. Due to the differences in film curves different gradation happens. Plain Tri-X has a shoulder while Professional Tri-X has a straight shoulder. This means Tri-X response to highlights tails off in hope of making highlights printable. Pro Tri-X has a straight shoulder which keeps on going which can lead to unprintable highlights. It also has a long toe that helps with underexposure latitude. Since there are different versions of Tri-X I said the hell with Kodak's Marketing Dorks, I will just use HP5+. I picked HP5+ because it is a little cheaper and works well with PMK Pyro. When it comes to your film developer they are very similiar. Xtol is an update of D-76. However D-76 is the STANDARD black and white film developer. Xtol is believe to offer slighter better speed, sharpness and grain should be the same. An interesting side bar is D-76H is the recommend version of D-76. Kodak version has various additives to help with its usage which makes it slightly different than the original. It formulation is also suspect because it pH changes in storage which can affect it performance. D-76H takes care of these problems. ID-11 from Ilford is actually the same formula as D-76 without the additives. Which were kept out by packing it into two packages which are than mixed together. I picked Xtol using it diluted 1:2 one-shot. While you can re-use I want consistent results therefore one shot and out it goes. I've used Kodak recommend times but shake my tank differently. These are only stating points. They can get you okay negatives. They will print fine. However you should get The Practical Zone System by Chris Johnson or New Zone System manual by White, Zakia and Todd. These give you an non-sensitometry method to calibrate your film. While less objective they can give you just as much useful information through experience without an expensive sensitometer and densitometer. I own Davis' Beyond the Zone System book which explains sensitometry. However I HATE his writing style. It not so complex but his writing makes it so. Another iportant book you SHOULD buy is the Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell and Troop. It has a lot of useful information. A lot of what I said came from that book. If my house was burning down I would save this book before my cameras! In Q and A discussion board posts by John Hicks and Dan Smith are useful. They have used the developers and film you have trying. However I have to say I've picked HP5+ and Xtol 1:2. Two thinks to look out for with Xtol is Solution A should be a powder which looks like sand when you open it. If not water might have gotten to it. Kodak quality control sometimes is lacking. Another thing to do is pick one film and try it different developers. Xtol and D-76 are alike. However Rodinal and D-76 are not. Rodinal is grainy yet sharp. However it gradation is beautiful. It a unique look. Another one to try is PMK Pyro. I must admit I still calibrating this developer. However the GREAT gradation in work by Edward Weston(User of Pyro) and Gordon Hutchings(inventor of PMK Pyro formula) is proof of this developer cool look.

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