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Response to Help with flash setup mechanics

from Oliver Sharp (osharp@greenspice.com)
John, a couple of other ideas that might be helpful. The SC-17 isn't all that long, so you might want to just get a long sync cord (they are much cheaper and plug directly into your flash). You lose all the fancy automatic metering functionality, but for studio-style work you really don't want that anyway. Instead, it is much better to use a flashmeter and set your flash to manual mode. Then you get repeatable results, and you can really analyze the effect of moving lights around rather than firing away and hoping the metering system does a good job. The SB-28 is very impressive and the automation is a godsend when you are forced to do grab-shots, but in a more controlled environment I think you will find that manual mode is much better.

Another issue is that using the light directly is quite harsh. You will probably want to experiment with softer light, and a fairly cheap way to do that is to buy a clamp that mounts on a tripod, has an umbrella holder, and uses a hotshoe attachment on top. Photoflex has one, I think, for around $30. A $35 umbrella and you have a very pleasing soft light for portraits that is equivalent to what professionals use (except for the amount of power available). You should also experiment freely with large foam-core boards, available at your local arts supply house for a few dollars. Start with white, but you can also try the effect of different colors. They make great reflectors, and give you a tremendous increase in flexibility for very little money. Also try crumpling up some aluminum foil and taping it so that it covers one of the foam boards. That gives you another popular type of lighting effect and is equivalent to the expensive silver reflectors you can buy. Those are easier to transport, more durable, and more convenient, but don't really work any better.

Have fun, Oliver

(posted 8800 days ago)

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